The History and Evolution of Comme des Garçons (CDG)

Early Beginnings: The Birth of a Revolutionary Brand

Comme des Garçons (CDG), meaning “like boys” in French, was founded by Rei Kawakubo in Tokyo, Japan, in 1969. Initially, Kawakubo studied fine arts and literature at Keio University, but her true passion for fashion emerged soon after. With no formal training in design, she entered the fashion world with a fearless approach that would later revolutionize the industry.

Kawakubo began her career by working as a freelance stylist, but soon started making her own garments. In 1973, she established the Comme des Garçons brand officially. By the late 1970s, CDG had gained a cult following in Japan, known for its avant-garde and COMME des GARÇONS. It was a radical departure from the polished, feminine silhouettes that dominated the fashion world at the time.

Expansion to Paris and Global Recognition

In 1981, Comme des Garçons made its Paris debut, presenting its women’s collection to an international audience. The show was met with mixed reactions, as Kawakubo’s designs challenged conventional beauty standards and the norms of the fashion industry. The collection, characterized by oversized silhouettes, asymmetry, and monochromatic color schemes (especially black), was unlike anything the fashion world had seen before.

Kawakubo’s unique vision subverted the traditional ideas of femininity and fashion itself. The garments often looked unfinished, with raw edges, holes, and frayed seams. Her approach not only garnered attention but also established her as one of the pioneers of the anti-fashion movement. By rejecting trends, she created her own identity and a loyal following.

Throughout the 1980s, CDG continued to challenge Western fashion norms, and Kawakubo became a regular fixture at Paris Fashion Week. Her collections provoked thought and invited discussion about the role of clothing in society, often blurring the line between art and fashion.

Comme des Garçons’ Distinctive Design Aesthetic

One of the hallmarks of CDG’s design language is its rejection of traditional body shapes and silhouettes. Rei Kawakubo embraced asymmetry, oversized proportions, and an almost architectural approach to clothing. Her use of black, white, and grey became synonymous with the brand, with color often used sparingly and purposefully.

The aesthetic of CDG also incorporates deconstruction, a technique that breaks down traditional garment-making techniques to create something new and unexpected. This can be seen in garments with visible seams, unfinished edges, and layers that seem to have been thrown together haphazardly, but upon closer inspection, reveal a deep understanding of construction and design.

Kawakubo’s collections are often conceptual, exploring themes such as imperfection, androgyny, and rebellion against societal norms. CDG clothing is not just about fashion; it’s about pushing boundaries and questioning the status quo. This makes the brand appealing not only to fashion enthusiasts but also to those who appreciate its intellectual depth.

Collaborations and Sub-labels: Expanding the CDG Universe

Comme des Garçons has become known for its collaborations with other brands, often combining high fashion with streetwear or sportswear. These collaborations have helped the brand reach a wider audience while maintaining its avant-garde edge.

Perhaps one of the most iconic collaborations is with Nike, resulting in unique iterations of the classic Air Force 1 and Dunk models, which have gained immense popularity in both fashion and sneakerhead communities. CDG has also worked with brands like Converse, Supreme, and Gucci, blending its distinct aesthetic with other fashion worlds.

In addition to collaborations, CDG has created several sub-labels, each offering a different take on the brand’s identity. Some of these include:

• Comme des Garçons Homme: A menswear line that retains Kawakubo’s deconstructed style but in a more wearable form.
• Comme des Garçons Play: The most commercially successful sub-label, known for its playful heart logo designed by Polish artist Filip Pagowski. This line features more accessible and casual clothing, such as T-shirts and sweaters.
• Comme des Garçons Noir: A line that focuses on black garments, a color central to the CDG aesthetic.
• Comme des Garçons Shirt: A sub-label that focuses on shirting, offering playful takes on traditional men’s dress shirts.

Each sub-label embodies different elements of Kawakubo’s vision while allowing for a more diverse range of products that appeal to different segments of the fashion market.

The Influence of Comme des Garçons on Modern Fashion

Rei Kawakubo’s influence on the fashion world cannot be overstated. Her avant-garde approach has inspired countless designers and artists, from established names like Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake to emerging talents who seek to break away from traditional fashion conventions.

Kawakubo’s work has helped pave the way for designers to embrace imperfection, asymmetry, and anti-fashion in their creations. Her disregard for trends has allowed CDG to remain relevant and continually evolve without being bound by the expectations of the industry.

The brand’s influence extends beyond clothing. In 2017, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute honored Kawakubo with an exhibit titled Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, making her the first living designer since Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 to be the subject of a solo exhibition. This exhibition highlighted her significant contributions to both fashion and art, solidifying her status as a visionary and icon.

The Business Side: Comme des Garçons as a Global Empire

Although CDG is known for its conceptual designs, it has also built a robust business empire. The brand operates flagship stores worldwide, including the famous Dover Street Market, a multi-brand retail concept launched by Kawakubo in London in 2004. Dover Street Market blends luxury with streetwear, showcasing a curated selection of Comme des Garçons products alongside other brands, creating a unique retail experience.

Kawakubo’s entrepreneurial vision has allowed CDG to maintain its position as one of the most innovative and successful fashion brands in the world. Despite its avant-garde reputation, CDG has achieved commercial success without compromising its core values or design philosophy.

Conclusion: Comme des Garçons’ Lasting Legacy

Comme des Garçons remains a pillar of avant-garde fashion, continually pushing boundaries and challenging conventions. Rei Kawakubo’s visionary approach has left an indelible mark on the fashion world, influencing generations of designers and shaping the way we think about clothing.

With a legacy that spans over five decades, CDG has proven that fashion can be both art and a form of intellectual expression. As the brand continues to evolve, it remains a powerful force in the industry, constantly redefining what it means to create and wear fashion.